Along the south coast of western Crete is a string of small villages whose best feature is that they're accessible only by sea. We shared a passenger ferry with some Brits, Greeks, Germans, French and a few hapless lambs, east from Palaiochora, stopping at Sougia, Agia Roumeli and finally Loutros, near our destination.
Loutros is the quintessential village hidden from the world; not even a 4 x 4 track can be pushed through its steep surrounding cliffs. It's mostly a series of small waterfront cafes and tavernas with rooms, busy enough in the summer but deserted otherwise - virtually the whole population moves to higher villages with road access. Many of the workers are from places like Albania and Tunisia.
Our hotel, the Phoenix, is even more remote, a short boat ride or 30 minute hike over the headland to the next cove.
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